Sesame Snickerdoodles

Featured in our Spring 2022 issue’s Some of This Season’s Most Delicious Reads by Now Serving’s Ken Concepcion

The perfect snickerdoodle is wrinkly, with very crispy edges but a soft and chewy center. This version, made with tahini and sesame seeds, borders on the savory-sweet territory that I love so much. Personally, I like to up the salt to ¾ teaspoon and even add a touch of freshly ground black pepper, but I kept a conservative amount of salt in the ingredient list and left the black pepper out here. I encourage you to try it for a cookie that has a slight floral spice to it. As always with cookies of this kind, be sure not to overbake or you will miss out on the chewy center.

MAKES 16 COOKIES

6 tablespoons (85 g) unsalted butter or dairy-free butter, at room temperature
¼ cup (65 g) well-stirred tahini
½ cup (100 g) plus 2 tablespoons sugar, divided
¼ cup (50 g) light brown sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 large egg
¾ cup (105 g) sorghum flour
¼ cup (40 g) potato starch
¼ cup (25 g) almond flour
1 teaspoon cream of tartar
½ teaspoon baking soda
½ teaspoon kosher salt
¾ teaspoon ground cinnamon, divided
2 tablespoons raw white sesame seeds

1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the butter, tahini, ½ cup (100 g) of the sugar, brown sugar, and vanilla for 3 minutes on medium speed, or until very light and airy. Add the egg and beat for another 2 minutes.

2. In a small bowl, whisk together the sorghum flour, potato starch, almond flour, cream of tartar, baking soda, salt, and ¼ teaspoon of the cinnamon. Add to the mixer bowl and beat on medium speed until the dough is very smooth and airy, about 30 seconds. Put the mixer bowl in the refrigerator for 15 minutes.

3. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper.

4. In a small sauté pan, toast the sesame seeds over medium heat until light golden brown, 1 to 2 minutes. Be careful not to burn them—they go from light golden brown to dark fairly quickly, so keep an eye on them. Transfer to a small bowl to cool, then stir in the remaining 2 tablespoons sugar and ½ teaspoon cinnamon.

5. Scoop 1½-tablespoon mounds of dough and roll in the sesame seed mixture. Place on the baking sheets, leaving 3 inches of space between. I am able to fit 6 cookies on each sheet.

6. Bake for 8 to 9 minutes, until the cookies are light golden brown, the tops have cracked, and the edges are crispy. The centers should stay soft as they firm up while cooling. Cool on the baking sheet for 10 minutes, or until you can lift the cookies without them falling apart. Finish baking the remaining dough. The cookies will keep for 3 days in an airtight container.