Finding Space for Finding My Spirit at Bishop's Lodge, Santa Fe

One of the lovely casitas. Photos courtesy of Bishop’s Lodge

A summer road trip, to me anyway, signals back to a time of absolute freedom—no worries, no time restrictions, no responsibilities—just exploration, of the mind, body, and spirit. Driving through storied places like Sedona and the Grand Canyon are enriching in a way no museum can be and offer nothing but space and time to just be. My destination, Bishop’s Lodge in Santa Fe, ended up being a true escape and a unique, hands-on way to experience the Land of Enchantment.

Just like any Auberge Collection Resort, Bishop’s Lodge is dripping with laid-back luxury. The rooms are cozy and filled with local color and the property itself begs to be explored. As a welcome treat and introduction to New Mexico, they presented a beautiful snack tray to represent the Three Sisters—the three main agricultural crops of many Indigenous North Americans—squash (seed brittle), (pop)corn, and (crispy black) beans. Within moments of my arrival, I just knew that the food here would be an incredibly important part of the journey.

I headed to SkyFire for a wine pairing dinner and was lucky enough to catch the sunset while sitting on the patio by a roaring fire. The interiors here are everything you want Santa Fe to be—wood-burning fireplaces, leather armchairs, cow skin rugs, and rustic touches everywhere. Led by wine director Missy Auge, who will now be remembered as the person who introduced me to an amazing New Mexican Riesling, I experienced beautiful wine pairings with dishes like a wapiti tamal, shrimp empanadas, Hatch green chile risotto, and elk short ribs, all from the well-curated menu by executive Chef Pablo Peñalosa.

Originally from Mexico City, Peñalosa has worked all over the world, including three-Michelin-star restaurants in Spain, and returned to Mexico City to open the famed Morimoto. He brings a truly global inspiration to the menu at SkyFire and features his own spin on old family recipes. We talked for a while about what hotel food was in the old days—an overpriced club sandwich or a cold cheeseburger brought by room service—and how far things have come. What impresses me about Auberge resorts is how chefs don’t need to blend in and make generic food for a generic traveler. SkyFire is all about Peñalosa and his vision—something authentic and local and real.

The enchantment of Bishop’s Lodge at night

Early the next day, I ventured off onto the nearby trails for a hike before heading back for a tamale-making class—an absolute delight, filled with tips and tricks and lots of stories—which is a perfect activity for a family. Of the many experiences on offer, make time for things like chocolate tastings (with a big dose of history), art classes, white water rafting, fly fishing, trail rides, or a unique incense making workshop. Another highlight was making anise-flavored cookies or biscochitos (New Mexico’s official state cookie) with pastry chef Erika Vining. She uses her mother Ramona’s recipe, which I loved and you can find here. I even got to take some cookies for the drive home.

Their Stream Dance Spa is simply serene, with all the right away-from-it-all vibes. In addition to all the great face and body treatments, they offer rituals for the spirit like shamanic healing, acupuncture, hypnotic healing, integrative breathwork sessions, and lots more.

Bishop’s Lodge is just three miles from town, and I much prefer being away from the crowds. Downtown Santa Fe is a short drive, and certainly worth it for some retail therapy and to check out the art scene. Shiprock Santa Fe is an aesthetic dream, filled with Native American rugs, jewellery, artwork, and pottery. For some treats to bring home, head to the Los Poblanos Farm Shop Norte for all things lavender or great gifts like green chile jam, local honey, and ceramics. Stop into the Kakawa Chocolate House for an unreal hot chocolate experience and get a box of chocolates for the road.

Finding Space for My Spirit at Bishop's Lodge in Santa Fe